Lardo

 

Lardo in Mexico City, Mexico weaves the Mediterranean into CDMX’s culinary fabric.  This chic restaurant delivers international quality on a neighborhood scale.

Rise Rating: 67%

The Obsidian Rise diagram above provides a visual for the rating explained in writing, below.  From left to right—

Story (2/3): Lardo is yet another well-frequented restaurant by a renowned cook and entrepreneur in Mexico City.  Here, we see Elena Reygadas, winner of the 2014 Veuve Cliquot award for best female chef in Latin America, with her third venture in the bustling metropolis.  Since 2015, Reygadas has brought hints of mostly Italian and Spanish flavors to a beautiful corner in the Condesa barrio.

Sustainability (1/3): Lardo’s menu is defined by seasonal ingredients.  While it also includes many national products and a few natural and well-intentioned wines and beers, the restaurant does not appear to have a further focus on Sustainability.

Experience (3/3): While what had originally brought us to Lardo was the eatery’s elegant and open design, there’s no doubt that the restaurant provided an overall great Experience.  On a nice day, walking up to the essentially wall-less locale, framed by plants and containing a great view of those eating inside, provides a freeing feeling as well as a bit of excitement to enter and to enjoy.  Within the space and mirroring the open façade is a bar and open kitchen, so that customers can fully take part in what is happening around them.  Sitting at the bar also gives an extra boost, as interacting with the servers (here, polite, flirtatious) while eating is always a bit more fun.  Drinks and plates were provided in a timely manner; we left fully satisfied with our mid-afternoon meal.

Cuisine (2/3): At Lardo, the abbreviated menu makes it possible to take everything in at one glance, although then choosing between the many great-sounding dishes is still quite difficult.  Intent on trying plates from each national flavor influence, we went for Italian (arancini of saffron and mozzarella) and Spanish (tostadas of tomato and anchovies) starters alongside Mexican beer and wine— a fantastic Colimita Lager and a Valle de Tintos from Ensenada.  Our main courses of thinly sliced, seared beef with an arugula and parmesan salad next to a dish of shrimp, red curry and gourd were delicious and high in quality.  Finishing off with the daily special of a millefoglie of red fruits and a fig leaf ice cream gave a further duo-cultural effect, with an extra bit of creativity.  And while Lardo does go the extra mile in its attention to detail, such as with its rosemary-infused water for the table, our sensation is that there is still room for Reygadas to push the culinary envelope at this establishment, perhaps by melding the Mediterranean and Mexican flavors together, rather than by just offering individual plates typical of each region.

Diversity (2/3): While one cannot complain about the matriarchy at Lardo, it seemed that the mostly male waiters could use some further inclusion.   On the other hand, with the aforementioned varying menu on top of its range of meat, fish, and vegetarian options, the Diversity of food offerings at the eatery is decidedly strong.

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